Staying in Auckland has been really great. Now that our car is sorted out and most of the camping gear is in order we will be departing North tomorrow. Our hosts here were awesome and we have been kept so busy that we haven't had much opportunity to write any of what we have been doing down. Hopefully we will have the chance to catch up on that while camping and will be posting a myriad of blog posts once we have internet access.
Still been meaning to update on the last few days in Rarotonga as well. So keep tuned for that. Just a quick note is that our 8km walk was actually 11km. Insane we were. I still have the scabs on my feet from the blisters.
But the reason for this post is to say I updated the photo album with pictures from Auckland. There are captions so some stories are listed there. They can be viewed at the Auckland album.
Saturday, January 17, 2009
Friday, January 16, 2009
Auckland - City of Stress and Good Company
So Auckland has so far had a lot of up and downs. Finding a car, buying a car, and then fixing up said car has proven to be extremely stressful. Our hosts however have proven to be super fun to hang out with and the beaches are quite beautiful here. I have been meaning for some time to finish up a post about Rarotonga but the hunt for the vehicle has taken up most of the time that I have been spending on the computer as I am trying not to spend too much time here. But eventually it will be up.
As for some NZ things that we have found to be interesting/thrilling/worth noting:
- Seeing sheep in the middle of the city - priceless
- Ketchup tastes much better here, but is called Tomato Sauce
- Food tastes like food, so much flavour even in food that isn't organic (the only food with flavour back home almost)
- They've integrated bike shops and coffee shops into one (Drew will blog and post pictures shortly, or sometime, maybe)
- The wind is so inconsistent that you can not fly a kite
- One Tree Hill is neat, even though there is no tree anymore (Clayton and Meg you will want to go here)
- They animate the walk sign in the downtown core, probably to thrill the tourists. Consider us thrilled.
- People are quite helpful and friendly
- Auction buying is exciting, but can also backfire when the repairs to the car are almost as much as the car
- Food prices are not as astronomically high as we were led to believe, especially in comparison to Rarotonga
There are many more things I am sure, but that is a short list until we can find the time to do some writing. Our hosts here are really kind though and are open to us staying for as long as we want, but we will most likely be hitting the road on Monday. The plan so far is to head up North to the tip and then start making our journey South. Being in Auckland took a little bit longer than we had anticipated but having people to sit and chat with each night and have a few drinks has been wonderful and a great introduction to the social life we can expect here (hopefully).
As for some NZ things that we have found to be interesting/thrilling/worth noting:
- Seeing sheep in the middle of the city - priceless
- Ketchup tastes much better here, but is called Tomato Sauce
- Food tastes like food, so much flavour even in food that isn't organic (the only food with flavour back home almost)
- They've integrated bike shops and coffee shops into one (Drew will blog and post pictures shortly, or sometime, maybe)
- The wind is so inconsistent that you can not fly a kite
- One Tree Hill is neat, even though there is no tree anymore (Clayton and Meg you will want to go here)
- They animate the walk sign in the downtown core, probably to thrill the tourists. Consider us thrilled.
- People are quite helpful and friendly
- Auction buying is exciting, but can also backfire when the repairs to the car are almost as much as the car
- Food prices are not as astronomically high as we were led to believe, especially in comparison to Rarotonga
There are many more things I am sure, but that is a short list until we can find the time to do some writing. Our hosts here are really kind though and are open to us staying for as long as we want, but we will most likely be hitting the road on Monday. The plan so far is to head up North to the tip and then start making our journey South. Being in Auckland took a little bit longer than we had anticipated but having people to sit and chat with each night and have a few drinks has been wonderful and a great introduction to the social life we can expect here (hopefully).
Tuesday, January 13, 2009
Photo Update from Rarotonga
Hello all. Got photos uploaded yesterday of our time in Rarotonga. Don't worry, this isn't all of them so there will be plenty to see in our slide show night should we return to Vancouver.
They are viewable at: http://picasaweb.google.com/boycottbroccoli/
Enjoy!
They are viewable at: http://picasaweb.google.com/boycottbroccoli/
Enjoy!
the post of firsts
This has been a few days of a few firsts. First time I've had luggage lost, and thankfully retrieved. First time flying with a partner. First time I've flown with a partner and had it go well! First time flying with a celebrity; Pamela Anderson rides Economy Class and behaves ... as any other person. Very disappointing indeed. Your fans demand antics, and egos, and horridly overpowering perfume.
As a brief aside, may I recommend Air New Zealand if you ever have the option. The staff have all been very helpful and take service seriously, the food is delicious, and the Linux-based user chair-screen interface had a really good selection of films, games, and informative clips. I watched the All Blacks hammer a British team back in '96, Karen watched The Dutchess. I will never play rugby.
First time I've been snorkeling, and seen dozens of different types of fish I never knew existed. Karen had a fearsome nest-guarding fish lung at her in a way that only protective fish can, and let me tell you, I have a new respect for those fish. They may not be carnivorous but their bravery does leave one wondering how to deal with a rampaging 25cm Picasso Triggerfish. We were so absorbed in our deep-shallows exploration that the hours seemed to burn by. Burn, that's a fitting word to talk about.
The word conjures impressions of heat, of redness perhaps, swelling for some, and a penetrating dryness that leaves things flakey and cracked or prone to such states. Thankfully we're not dealing with any of that latter stuff. Some hot red areas that should fade in a day or two and an understanding that it is not acceptable to forget about time when flopping about under a mid-day tropical sun. Scalp burns are less than fun. However! If I may make another recommendation to anyone considering tropical locales, do thyself a favour and go to the electric beach. Fake n' Bake as it is otherwise known; a tanning salon to those who like to take the fun out of descriptors equating a semi/unclothed human being to a piece of breaded chicken. Whichever name you personally identify with, it has saved our pasty Canadian skin from ending up somewhat like fried chicken skin. Best $30 I've spent in a very long time.
First time I've obtained a driving license in a foreign country. My exam involved standing next to a guy who read over the checklist of Things For Which To Test The Applicant and trading the odd joke as he ticked each box dutifully. They were tremendous tick marks, full of confidence and precision, as though he had personally experienced my driving ability. I then took my portion of that piece of paper to a police station, paid $20, and was issued a hard-card driving licence for the Cook Islands.
To be clear, the local drivers are saints. The 50kph speed limit is generally adhered to (40kph if you wish to drive a scooter without wearing a helmet) and there is infinite patience for those who choose to drive at their own, slower, pace. No tailgating, no honks, no dangerous passing, just placid cruising. Many foreigners, on the other hand, can't quite figure out that one drives on the left side in the Cooks, and as it is in most places on earth, you still can't drink and drive. We've been driving during the day with great success.
First time on a road bike in a very long time. Since my crash in April that totalled my gorgeous, light, full carbon Giant, road bikes have been scarce in my life. Our guesthouse manager just happens to be a triathlete with a good frame and sweet tyres (145psi, I'm in heaven). As luck would have it, of the luggage that was not lost in our transfer, one happened to be full of all my bike gear. We happened to be talking in front of her office where I spotted, and stared at, the rig until she caught the drift. She graciously offered to let me go for a ride, and I in turn waited for her to finish the offer before hauling it out of her office. So I swapped out her pedals for mine, tossed on the ol' spandex and riding shoes, and pounded out the beautiful 32km circumference of the island. It felt great to push the legs like that again.
First time seeing just how expensive this place can be if you're not careful (pictures to come), and how reasonable it is if one shops around and hunts down the local produce. Paw Paw, the local name for Papaya, is phenomenal, and easily the best I've ever had. There is masses of fresh Albacore everywhere, which is rarely inspiring but is well at its best in these parts, and is delicious. Or you can order a coke for $4, petrol is $2.25/L, and the local breakfast joint sells 2 eggs, 2 strips of bacon, and toast for $20. A small glass of juice is complimentary.
First time hitchhiking. First time hiking in a tropical forest. First time getting lost while hiking in a tropical forest. First time playing it oh-so cool to the girlfriend while finding our way out of being lost in a tropical forest. Not the first time playing it oh-so cool to the girlfriend while having no clue what's going on. But this is supposed to be a post of firsts.
First time being in the Southern Hemisphere, and seeing a different face of the moon at night.
That's likely about as many firsts as our patient readers care to dig through. Many more firsts to come, as we negotiate buying a car (another first for me!) and figure out this nonsensical giving way rule they have down here. Good to get that under our belts before driving around and down this country.
As a brief aside, may I recommend Air New Zealand if you ever have the option. The staff have all been very helpful and take service seriously, the food is delicious, and the Linux-based user chair-screen interface had a really good selection of films, games, and informative clips. I watched the All Blacks hammer a British team back in '96, Karen watched The Dutchess. I will never play rugby.
First time I've been snorkeling, and seen dozens of different types of fish I never knew existed. Karen had a fearsome nest-guarding fish lung at her in a way that only protective fish can, and let me tell you, I have a new respect for those fish. They may not be carnivorous but their bravery does leave one wondering how to deal with a rampaging 25cm Picasso Triggerfish. We were so absorbed in our deep-shallows exploration that the hours seemed to burn by. Burn, that's a fitting word to talk about.
The word conjures impressions of heat, of redness perhaps, swelling for some, and a penetrating dryness that leaves things flakey and cracked or prone to such states. Thankfully we're not dealing with any of that latter stuff. Some hot red areas that should fade in a day or two and an understanding that it is not acceptable to forget about time when flopping about under a mid-day tropical sun. Scalp burns are less than fun. However! If I may make another recommendation to anyone considering tropical locales, do thyself a favour and go to the electric beach. Fake n' Bake as it is otherwise known; a tanning salon to those who like to take the fun out of descriptors equating a semi/unclothed human being to a piece of breaded chicken. Whichever name you personally identify with, it has saved our pasty Canadian skin from ending up somewhat like fried chicken skin. Best $30 I've spent in a very long time.
First time I've obtained a driving license in a foreign country. My exam involved standing next to a guy who read over the checklist of Things For Which To Test The Applicant and trading the odd joke as he ticked each box dutifully. They were tremendous tick marks, full of confidence and precision, as though he had personally experienced my driving ability. I then took my portion of that piece of paper to a police station, paid $20, and was issued a hard-card driving licence for the Cook Islands.
To be clear, the local drivers are saints. The 50kph speed limit is generally adhered to (40kph if you wish to drive a scooter without wearing a helmet) and there is infinite patience for those who choose to drive at their own, slower, pace. No tailgating, no honks, no dangerous passing, just placid cruising. Many foreigners, on the other hand, can't quite figure out that one drives on the left side in the Cooks, and as it is in most places on earth, you still can't drink and drive. We've been driving during the day with great success.
First time on a road bike in a very long time. Since my crash in April that totalled my gorgeous, light, full carbon Giant, road bikes have been scarce in my life. Our guesthouse manager just happens to be a triathlete with a good frame and sweet tyres (145psi, I'm in heaven). As luck would have it, of the luggage that was not lost in our transfer, one happened to be full of all my bike gear. We happened to be talking in front of her office where I spotted, and stared at, the rig until she caught the drift. She graciously offered to let me go for a ride, and I in turn waited for her to finish the offer before hauling it out of her office. So I swapped out her pedals for mine, tossed on the ol' spandex and riding shoes, and pounded out the beautiful 32km circumference of the island. It felt great to push the legs like that again.
First time seeing just how expensive this place can be if you're not careful (pictures to come), and how reasonable it is if one shops around and hunts down the local produce. Paw Paw, the local name for Papaya, is phenomenal, and easily the best I've ever had. There is masses of fresh Albacore everywhere, which is rarely inspiring but is well at its best in these parts, and is delicious. Or you can order a coke for $4, petrol is $2.25/L, and the local breakfast joint sells 2 eggs, 2 strips of bacon, and toast for $20. A small glass of juice is complimentary.
First time hitchhiking. First time hiking in a tropical forest. First time getting lost while hiking in a tropical forest. First time playing it oh-so cool to the girlfriend while finding our way out of being lost in a tropical forest. Not the first time playing it oh-so cool to the girlfriend while having no clue what's going on. But this is supposed to be a post of firsts.
First time being in the Southern Hemisphere, and seeing a different face of the moon at night.
That's likely about as many firsts as our patient readers care to dig through. Many more firsts to come, as we negotiate buying a car (another first for me!) and figure out this nonsensical giving way rule they have down here. Good to get that under our belts before driving around and down this country.
Thursday, January 8, 2009
Fish of the Cook Islands
So as mentioned on Wednesday Drew and I did a three hour tour of the Lagoon by the Fruits of Rarotonga with snorkel gear. For those of you interested in fish here is a listing of the fish we saw and some of their characteristics if anything beyond being a beautiful fish, or very expensive should it be in a pet store, was noticed.
- Blue Fin Trevally; as I was walking into the water a school of these large fish (can be upwards to 80cm but these were probably around 60cm) swam around me. After going under the water the school continued to move with us for a good 5 or 10 minutes. Very curious and calm.
- Picasso Trigger Fish; we had learned at breakfast that these fish were very territorial and currently in breeding season so they would charge and have been known to draw blood. Of course this made me afraid of them so when one turned, made eye contact and charged towards me I screamed and flailed making Drew think I was being attacked by a shark. When he realized it hadn’t even touched me I got a cursory roll of the eyes. These fish I will forever fear.
- Scissortail Sergeant; in the shallow waters this small fish was the most common I saw. There was also one that looked just like a Gourami but doesn’t appear on one of the ‘Fish of the Cook Islands cards here at the guesthouse.
- Convict Surgeonfish and Threadfin Butterfly Fish; became the more common fish as we moved into deeper waters.
- Blue Damsel; the first really brightly coloured fish seen. They looked luminescent in the water.
- Achilles Tang; I think this was the black fish that was most common amongst the coral. The picture on the card isn’t clear. It could also have been a Coral Cod.
- Lemonpeel Angel Fish; looks like it is wearing blue eyes hadow.
- Speckled, Saddled, Raccoon, and Teardrop Butterfly fish.
- Spotted Toby; one of the odder breeds.
- Pennant Bannerfish; probably one of the largest Angelfish I had ever seen, extremely graceful and shy.
- Threespot Wrasse
- Ember Parrotfish
- Neon Fusiller
- Red Squirrel Fish; only saw one of these hiding a bit under a rock
- Yellowstripe Goatfish; looked just like a giant Cory but instead of its mouth having the fronds, it has two chin fronds that scoop up the sand to disturb its food. Very large (40cm) and neat.
So far we have seen no eels, lion fish or porcupine fish but hopefully before long we will.
- Blue Fin Trevally; as I was walking into the water a school of these large fish (can be upwards to 80cm but these were probably around 60cm) swam around me. After going under the water the school continued to move with us for a good 5 or 10 minutes. Very curious and calm.
- Picasso Trigger Fish; we had learned at breakfast that these fish were very territorial and currently in breeding season so they would charge and have been known to draw blood. Of course this made me afraid of them so when one turned, made eye contact and charged towards me I screamed and flailed making Drew think I was being attacked by a shark. When he realized it hadn’t even touched me I got a cursory roll of the eyes. These fish I will forever fear.
- Scissortail Sergeant; in the shallow waters this small fish was the most common I saw. There was also one that looked just like a Gourami but doesn’t appear on one of the ‘Fish of the Cook Islands cards here at the guesthouse.
- Convict Surgeonfish and Threadfin Butterfly Fish; became the more common fish as we moved into deeper waters.
- Blue Damsel; the first really brightly coloured fish seen. They looked luminescent in the water.
- Achilles Tang; I think this was the black fish that was most common amongst the coral. The picture on the card isn’t clear. It could also have been a Coral Cod.
- Lemonpeel Angel Fish; looks like it is wearing blue eyes hadow.
- Speckled, Saddled, Raccoon, and Teardrop Butterfly fish.
- Spotted Toby; one of the odder breeds.
- Pennant Bannerfish; probably one of the largest Angelfish I had ever seen, extremely graceful and shy.
- Threespot Wrasse
- Ember Parrotfish
- Neon Fusiller
- Red Squirrel Fish; only saw one of these hiding a bit under a rock
- Yellowstripe Goatfish; looked just like a giant Cory but instead of its mouth having the fronds, it has two chin fronds that scoop up the sand to disturb its food. Very large (40cm) and neat.
So far we have seen no eels, lion fish or porcupine fish but hopefully before long we will.
The long rambling overview by Karen
We are now onto day four of our trip and all I can really say is, stunning. There have been some hurdles of course but so far being in a tropical wonderland is amazing.
But I will start at day one.
The trip started off well with our plane leaving only about 15 minutes late, which was fantastic considering it had dumped snow the night before we left. We had a star sighting on the plane when a very run down looking Pamela Anderson walked into Economy Class and sat just a few rows up from us. Both of us had to crack a few jokes about her not being in First class but I think there was a healthy dose of Canadian star struckness going on (quietly whispering about being near a celebrity) when we could smell her perfume as she stood next to us waiting for the toilet. However flying with Air Canada for the first leg of our journey turned out to be a bit disappointing when we discovered that there would be no complimentary snack or food of any sort even though it was supposed to be a three hour flight (turned out to be a 2 and a bit in the end though). So I watched The Duchess (relatively good movie well acted) while Drew read and we sipped our complimentary beverages.
The layover in LA was lack luster as we were sequestered into a tiny part of the airport with only a few food options and only one store worth looking in. We did however have a very tasty pulled pork sandwich at the Route 66 Diner and then sat around doing Soduku since internet use cost money. Close to catching our flight we heard about some travel issues another flight was having and I was extremely grateful that we got out of Vancouver as we heard that the Airport had been shut down.
Flight with Air New Zealand to Rorotonga was a definite plus over Air Canada. We were fed a really good dinner (I selected Gluten Free, Drew had his Hindu meal. The look on the flight attendants face was awesome handing them over) and got to eat before everyone else because we selected the special meals. We even got to enjoy complimentary alcoholic beverages with our meal, very nice. There was a lot of turbulence on the flight which made sleeping difficult but I watched Nick and Nora’s Ultimate Playlist and then slept a bit to Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind. I got a few hours in and then we were fed a breakfast of fruit (due to our special meal choices we didn’t get the ham and cheese croissant, the downfall of selecting special meals) and started our early descent into Rarotonga.
Due to our early arrival we couldn’t see too much outside the plane as we flew onto the island but I think that also said a lot about the place we were landing as there was very little light pollution, few street lights and just a few houses lit up. It was really stunning to see the waves hitting the reef around the island. The most startling though was walking off the plane onto the tarmac in our sweaters and jeans into 22 degree weather (at 5am local time, 7am Vancouver) and humidity like we never see in Vancouver. It was neat to see an airport that was just a large room and being greeted by a Maori singer. The trick here though was after the luggage went around a few times and we only had two bags we kept looking expectantly as our fellow travelers slowly ventured out of the airport. Then I heard the words “that’s the last of the luggage folks” and I swear my soul died a little. A fear of mine is losing luggage, and there we were with two pieces missing. Ironically we soon discovered that they were the pieces that had the majority of Drew’s summer clothes, my hiking shoes and all of our toiletries. Air New Zealand was really great though and they gave us some kits with essentials like t-shirts (XL for women, XXL for man) and toothbrushes and the promise to reimburse us for incidentals, so we left with missing luggage praying that it would soon arrive and met with Kelly the manager for Aremango Guest House where we would be staying.
The 8km drive to the guesthouse was exciting for me. I had never seen palm trees, never driven on the left side of the road, never been in any sort of tropical environment, and never had a stamp in my passport until that day. It was beautiful to see clear blue skies, tons of green and the ocean poking out through the trees. The guesthouse itself is also really nice. Our room has a king size bed and two twin bunk beds which are perfect for piling our luggage onto. The kitchen is very clean and has most everything we need for cooking. There is a large covered porch out the kitchen with two large seating areas which have proven to be great to sit around with the others staying at the guesthouse for meals and talking at night. It is also just a short walk from the Beach.
So the logical thing on the first day at 7am after a 17 or so hour commute would be to rest, but not us, after a quick breakfast we caught a ride into town. Now something important to note is that the island of Rarotonga is only 32km around, and from town to where we are staying is 8km. So of course Drew and I figure that to walk 8km in Vancouver would be about 1.5-2 hours so we can definitely walk back, and plan to do so. Yeah… the adventure begins. We grabbed some toiletries and food while I lamented over the fact that two important bags went missing and two not as important made it through (like the bag with our camping gear and cycling gear), and over the cost of food as took photos of how expensive things are here, like $6 for a box of Kleenex, which I will post once we have more reliable internet access. We then added to our tourist look, pale skin wasn’t a tell tale tourist sign enough for us, and I got a big floppy straw hat, and Drew got a gray straw cowboy hat. Touristy and will keep the sun out of our eyes! Then the walk begins.
So we were walking for about 45 minutes before the first person stopped to offer us a ride, we politely said no thanks and kept upon our way. After about 1.5 hours we started to say “oh we are close now I remember this massage place”. This is also when the heat of the day was at its max and our water bottle started to get a bit low and when my feet started to blister from wearing just small slip on shoes and Drew’s flip flops, or jandals as the Kiwis call them, (Japanese Sandals) started to bother him. Then after about 2 hours the second car stopped to offer us a ride, but no, on we went because now we had to prove that we could do it. It wasn’t long after this when we had started to walk in the rain that I heard a cat crying from inside the bushes next to the road. I called it over and it turned out to be a tiny kitten probably no older than about 6 or 7 weeks that was skin and bone and soaking wet. I of course picked it up and after trying the house nearest where we found it (no one was home) decided the only logical conclusion was to carry it the rest of the way home. Turns out we were still a good few km from home at that point so I was carrying a watermelon my bag filled with food and a heavy water bottle and juggling a kitten while it was raining. We got the kitten back and some of the other guests helped get it milk and we called the local animal shelter to come get it. But I of course fell in love with it, and it with me. I had really been struggling with having to part with my cat, Nuku, and was sad that cats wouldn’t be a part of my life anymore and the universe provided me with a lesson that cats will always be a part, even if they aren’t mine. So I bonded with Shiva, my newly named friend and got to have the joy of a creature being completely trusting and loving because I had cared for it. The shelter came shortly after but it was a good reminder to me about how things that are important always find a way in.
The rest of our first day included going swimming in the lagoon just off from our guesthouse and me taking care of my extremely swollen and blistered feet. Walking into the water wasn’t the extremely warm water I was expecting but it certainly wasn’t like the pacific from back home. You could walk directly in without wincing at all, amazing. The water is also crystal clear and the bottom has a startling amount of sea cucumbers. First day found bed around 8pm with a sleep like the dead until…
5am. Second day. Roosters. Insane roosters who crow at each other to announce the morning and do so right outside our window since chickens seem to roam wild on this island. Something inside of me responded to this, some primal prairie girl roots that made me feel like I should spring out of bed and get to tending Ma and Pa’s fields. But of course I merely complained about chickens and then fell back asleep. Since we had discovered that a 8km walk in 32 degree humid weather was not like Vancouver we needed a more reliable form of transport and the bus cost $4 each time you got on, each, so we figured scooter here we come. It seems that the primary form of transportation on the island for foreigners as well as locals is scooters and Drew was in his element when we picked ours up. I must say that it is really thrilling to bomb along on the back. We did the circuit of the entire island scoping out places we needed to return to and then explored the Fruits of Rarotonga beach which had really nice hot water with lots of coral. Drew did some snorkeling but since my contacts were packed in the lost luggage I found that I couldn’t see that much so chose to just swim and enjoy the weather. Second day found another early night of sleep.
This takes us to third day, today. Again the roosters were at it at the crack of dawn. A bit easier to fall back asleep today, which was nice. However when I went out of the room the best sight was to be had, that of our luggage stacked at the door. Happiness knew no bounds as I came back into the room and danced around doing the “our luggage was found and delivered” dance for Drew while he lay in bed. It was exciting. Unpacking my contacts and getting ready for the day knowing I could get some snorkeling in was thrilling. Back to Fruits of Rarotonga we went and promptly snorkeled for about 3 hours. I now have the burns to prove it, but it was probably the most beautiful thing I had ever seen. Being amongst the fish and seeing fish that I had only ever seen at the Aquarium, or in pet stores swimming just inches from me was the highlight of the trip so far. After lunch we spent the afternoon riding around on the scooter some more and I am now nursing burnt knees, shoulder and inner thighs to my butt due to I think the sunscreen rubbing off on the scooter then swimming for 3 hours. Oh well, this uncomfortable pain has been totally worth the things I have seen and experienced. I am blown away by this country.
Sun burnt, dehydrated and tired I am loving it here. Taking today to rest as a storm may be moving in, but I am sure there will be many more rambles to come.
But I will start at day one.
The trip started off well with our plane leaving only about 15 minutes late, which was fantastic considering it had dumped snow the night before we left. We had a star sighting on the plane when a very run down looking Pamela Anderson walked into Economy Class and sat just a few rows up from us. Both of us had to crack a few jokes about her not being in First class but I think there was a healthy dose of Canadian star struckness going on (quietly whispering about being near a celebrity) when we could smell her perfume as she stood next to us waiting for the toilet. However flying with Air Canada for the first leg of our journey turned out to be a bit disappointing when we discovered that there would be no complimentary snack or food of any sort even though it was supposed to be a three hour flight (turned out to be a 2 and a bit in the end though). So I watched The Duchess (relatively good movie well acted) while Drew read and we sipped our complimentary beverages.
The layover in LA was lack luster as we were sequestered into a tiny part of the airport with only a few food options and only one store worth looking in. We did however have a very tasty pulled pork sandwich at the Route 66 Diner and then sat around doing Soduku since internet use cost money. Close to catching our flight we heard about some travel issues another flight was having and I was extremely grateful that we got out of Vancouver as we heard that the Airport had been shut down.
Flight with Air New Zealand to Rorotonga was a definite plus over Air Canada. We were fed a really good dinner (I selected Gluten Free, Drew had his Hindu meal. The look on the flight attendants face was awesome handing them over) and got to eat before everyone else because we selected the special meals. We even got to enjoy complimentary alcoholic beverages with our meal, very nice. There was a lot of turbulence on the flight which made sleeping difficult but I watched Nick and Nora’s Ultimate Playlist and then slept a bit to Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind. I got a few hours in and then we were fed a breakfast of fruit (due to our special meal choices we didn’t get the ham and cheese croissant, the downfall of selecting special meals) and started our early descent into Rarotonga.
Due to our early arrival we couldn’t see too much outside the plane as we flew onto the island but I think that also said a lot about the place we were landing as there was very little light pollution, few street lights and just a few houses lit up. It was really stunning to see the waves hitting the reef around the island. The most startling though was walking off the plane onto the tarmac in our sweaters and jeans into 22 degree weather (at 5am local time, 7am Vancouver) and humidity like we never see in Vancouver. It was neat to see an airport that was just a large room and being greeted by a Maori singer. The trick here though was after the luggage went around a few times and we only had two bags we kept looking expectantly as our fellow travelers slowly ventured out of the airport. Then I heard the words “that’s the last of the luggage folks” and I swear my soul died a little. A fear of mine is losing luggage, and there we were with two pieces missing. Ironically we soon discovered that they were the pieces that had the majority of Drew’s summer clothes, my hiking shoes and all of our toiletries. Air New Zealand was really great though and they gave us some kits with essentials like t-shirts (XL for women, XXL for man) and toothbrushes and the promise to reimburse us for incidentals, so we left with missing luggage praying that it would soon arrive and met with Kelly the manager for Aremango Guest House where we would be staying.
The 8km drive to the guesthouse was exciting for me. I had never seen palm trees, never driven on the left side of the road, never been in any sort of tropical environment, and never had a stamp in my passport until that day. It was beautiful to see clear blue skies, tons of green and the ocean poking out through the trees. The guesthouse itself is also really nice. Our room has a king size bed and two twin bunk beds which are perfect for piling our luggage onto. The kitchen is very clean and has most everything we need for cooking. There is a large covered porch out the kitchen with two large seating areas which have proven to be great to sit around with the others staying at the guesthouse for meals and talking at night. It is also just a short walk from the Beach.
So the logical thing on the first day at 7am after a 17 or so hour commute would be to rest, but not us, after a quick breakfast we caught a ride into town. Now something important to note is that the island of Rarotonga is only 32km around, and from town to where we are staying is 8km. So of course Drew and I figure that to walk 8km in Vancouver would be about 1.5-2 hours so we can definitely walk back, and plan to do so. Yeah… the adventure begins. We grabbed some toiletries and food while I lamented over the fact that two important bags went missing and two not as important made it through (like the bag with our camping gear and cycling gear), and over the cost of food as took photos of how expensive things are here, like $6 for a box of Kleenex, which I will post once we have more reliable internet access. We then added to our tourist look, pale skin wasn’t a tell tale tourist sign enough for us, and I got a big floppy straw hat, and Drew got a gray straw cowboy hat. Touristy and will keep the sun out of our eyes! Then the walk begins.
So we were walking for about 45 minutes before the first person stopped to offer us a ride, we politely said no thanks and kept upon our way. After about 1.5 hours we started to say “oh we are close now I remember this massage place”. This is also when the heat of the day was at its max and our water bottle started to get a bit low and when my feet started to blister from wearing just small slip on shoes and Drew’s flip flops, or jandals as the Kiwis call them, (Japanese Sandals) started to bother him. Then after about 2 hours the second car stopped to offer us a ride, but no, on we went because now we had to prove that we could do it. It wasn’t long after this when we had started to walk in the rain that I heard a cat crying from inside the bushes next to the road. I called it over and it turned out to be a tiny kitten probably no older than about 6 or 7 weeks that was skin and bone and soaking wet. I of course picked it up and after trying the house nearest where we found it (no one was home) decided the only logical conclusion was to carry it the rest of the way home. Turns out we were still a good few km from home at that point so I was carrying a watermelon my bag filled with food and a heavy water bottle and juggling a kitten while it was raining. We got the kitten back and some of the other guests helped get it milk and we called the local animal shelter to come get it. But I of course fell in love with it, and it with me. I had really been struggling with having to part with my cat, Nuku, and was sad that cats wouldn’t be a part of my life anymore and the universe provided me with a lesson that cats will always be a part, even if they aren’t mine. So I bonded with Shiva, my newly named friend and got to have the joy of a creature being completely trusting and loving because I had cared for it. The shelter came shortly after but it was a good reminder to me about how things that are important always find a way in.
The rest of our first day included going swimming in the lagoon just off from our guesthouse and me taking care of my extremely swollen and blistered feet. Walking into the water wasn’t the extremely warm water I was expecting but it certainly wasn’t like the pacific from back home. You could walk directly in without wincing at all, amazing. The water is also crystal clear and the bottom has a startling amount of sea cucumbers. First day found bed around 8pm with a sleep like the dead until…
5am. Second day. Roosters. Insane roosters who crow at each other to announce the morning and do so right outside our window since chickens seem to roam wild on this island. Something inside of me responded to this, some primal prairie girl roots that made me feel like I should spring out of bed and get to tending Ma and Pa’s fields. But of course I merely complained about chickens and then fell back asleep. Since we had discovered that a 8km walk in 32 degree humid weather was not like Vancouver we needed a more reliable form of transport and the bus cost $4 each time you got on, each, so we figured scooter here we come. It seems that the primary form of transportation on the island for foreigners as well as locals is scooters and Drew was in his element when we picked ours up. I must say that it is really thrilling to bomb along on the back. We did the circuit of the entire island scoping out places we needed to return to and then explored the Fruits of Rarotonga beach which had really nice hot water with lots of coral. Drew did some snorkeling but since my contacts were packed in the lost luggage I found that I couldn’t see that much so chose to just swim and enjoy the weather. Second day found another early night of sleep.
This takes us to third day, today. Again the roosters were at it at the crack of dawn. A bit easier to fall back asleep today, which was nice. However when I went out of the room the best sight was to be had, that of our luggage stacked at the door. Happiness knew no bounds as I came back into the room and danced around doing the “our luggage was found and delivered” dance for Drew while he lay in bed. It was exciting. Unpacking my contacts and getting ready for the day knowing I could get some snorkeling in was thrilling. Back to Fruits of Rarotonga we went and promptly snorkeled for about 3 hours. I now have the burns to prove it, but it was probably the most beautiful thing I had ever seen. Being amongst the fish and seeing fish that I had only ever seen at the Aquarium, or in pet stores swimming just inches from me was the highlight of the trip so far. After lunch we spent the afternoon riding around on the scooter some more and I am now nursing burnt knees, shoulder and inner thighs to my butt due to I think the sunscreen rubbing off on the scooter then swimming for 3 hours. Oh well, this uncomfortable pain has been totally worth the things I have seen and experienced. I am blown away by this country.
Sun burnt, dehydrated and tired I am loving it here. Taking today to rest as a storm may be moving in, but I am sure there will be many more rambles to come.
Sunday, January 4, 2009
Packed
So Karen and I have packed up or sold our belongings and are sitting, with what we have left, in the Vancouver airport awaiting the first leg of our journey. Good to know: as we have a short layover in L.A., we weren't required to undergo retina scan and fingerprinting. Does anyone else find that process just a bit worrying?
Hello, this is Skynet calling. How are you feeling today?
For those who don't know our travel plans, we're doing a bit of the milk run. Today we fly Vancouver --> L.A., where we'll have almost 6 whole hours to see the sights and absorb the culture of LAX airport. I can't wait to hunt for postcards.
From there we fly L.A. --> Cook Islands, for 6 days of 30°C weather, which after the blizzards in Vancouver (hey, it snowed a fair bit yeah?) will be a welcome change. We've even been visiting the tanning beds to prep ourselves, and may I recommend that you experience these wondrous places at least once in your life?
Ok, so that side-trip out of the way, we head to Auckland for January 12. The plan at this point is to load our belongings (being sure to not forget the media-laden laptops or underwear) into the 2nd hand car we buy and drive helter-skelter around the islands for a few weeks. The end destination being Christchurch, a city of about 300,000 inhabitants and the largest urban area of the South Island.
I may not have mentioned that the helter-skelter part does, perhaps, involve visiting one or two wine-producing regions. Will try not to bore Karen to tears with yet another photo of vines, or any of our readers for that matter.
That's about all for now. Will write more when more's to be written.
Hello, this is Skynet calling. How are you feeling today?
For those who don't know our travel plans, we're doing a bit of the milk run. Today we fly Vancouver --> L.A., where we'll have almost 6 whole hours to see the sights and absorb the culture of LAX airport. I can't wait to hunt for postcards.
From there we fly L.A. --> Cook Islands, for 6 days of 30°C weather, which after the blizzards in Vancouver (hey, it snowed a fair bit yeah?) will be a welcome change. We've even been visiting the tanning beds to prep ourselves, and may I recommend that you experience these wondrous places at least once in your life?
Ok, so that side-trip out of the way, we head to Auckland for January 12. The plan at this point is to load our belongings (being sure to not forget the media-laden laptops or underwear) into the 2nd hand car we buy and drive helter-skelter around the islands for a few weeks. The end destination being Christchurch, a city of about 300,000 inhabitants and the largest urban area of the South Island.
I may not have mentioned that the helter-skelter part does, perhaps, involve visiting one or two wine-producing regions. Will try not to bore Karen to tears with yet another photo of vines, or any of our readers for that matter.
That's about all for now. Will write more when more's to be written.
Friday, January 2, 2009
Packing
I find myself saying, "this time from now I will be in the " and getting giddy and excited far more often now that the act of packing has started. Looking at stacks of clothes and a bed strewn about with various books, bike gear and vitamins was overwhelming but now that the process of placing those items into luggage has started I have realized how much I have enjoyed reevaluating the need of many things I have held onto and carted around for a number of years. You realize in doing this process how much you really need to live and be happy, and it is not as much as I would have expected for myself.
The necessities of course are (in order of importance):
- Laptop and ability to plug in laptop in foreign country. Laptop must include copious amounts of stored media to consume
- Clothes with underwear taking precedence over anything else
- Books, many many books, most of a technical nature (this holds true for Drew as well)
- Bike gear as helmets that fit well and look sharp are annoyingly hard to find
- Camping gear, with a new tiny cook stove being a very exciting purchase
Most anything else can be left behind. Just a few mementos are coming along. I like this feeling that my life will be fitting into a few suitcases and carted around the world with me in just 1.5 days time.
The necessities of course are (in order of importance):
- Laptop and ability to plug in laptop in foreign country. Laptop must include copious amounts of stored media to consume
- Clothes with underwear taking precedence over anything else
- Books, many many books, most of a technical nature (this holds true for Drew as well)
- Bike gear as helmets that fit well and look sharp are annoyingly hard to find
- Camping gear, with a new tiny cook stove being a very exciting purchase
Most anything else can be left behind. Just a few mementos are coming along. I like this feeling that my life will be fitting into a few suitcases and carted around the world with me in just 1.5 days time.
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