Thursday, January 8, 2009

The long rambling overview by Karen

We are now onto day four of our trip and all I can really say is, stunning. There have been some hurdles of course but so far being in a tropical wonderland is amazing.

But I will start at day one.

The trip started off well with our plane leaving only about 15 minutes late, which was fantastic considering it had dumped snow the night before we left. We had a star sighting on the plane when a very run down looking Pamela Anderson walked into Economy Class and sat just a few rows up from us. Both of us had to crack a few jokes about her not being in First class but I think there was a healthy dose of Canadian star struckness going on (quietly whispering about being near a celebrity) when we could smell her perfume as she stood next to us waiting for the toilet. However flying with Air Canada for the first leg of our journey turned out to be a bit disappointing when we discovered that there would be no complimentary snack or food of any sort even though it was supposed to be a three hour flight (turned out to be a 2 and a bit in the end though). So I watched The Duchess (relatively good movie well acted) while Drew read and we sipped our complimentary beverages.

The layover in LA was lack luster as we were sequestered into a tiny part of the airport with only a few food options and only one store worth looking in. We did however have a very tasty pulled pork sandwich at the Route 66 Diner and then sat around doing Soduku since internet use cost money. Close to catching our flight we heard about some travel issues another flight was having and I was extremely grateful that we got out of Vancouver as we heard that the Airport had been shut down.

Flight with Air New Zealand to Rorotonga was a definite plus over Air Canada. We were fed a really good dinner (I selected Gluten Free, Drew had his Hindu meal. The look on the flight attendants face was awesome handing them over) and got to eat before everyone else because we selected the special meals. We even got to enjoy complimentary alcoholic beverages with our meal, very nice. There was a lot of turbulence on the flight which made sleeping difficult but I watched Nick and Nora’s Ultimate Playlist and then slept a bit to Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind. I got a few hours in and then we were fed a breakfast of fruit (due to our special meal choices we didn’t get the ham and cheese croissant, the downfall of selecting special meals) and started our early descent into Rarotonga.

Due to our early arrival we couldn’t see too much outside the plane as we flew onto the island but I think that also said a lot about the place we were landing as there was very little light pollution, few street lights and just a few houses lit up. It was really stunning to see the waves hitting the reef around the island. The most startling though was walking off the plane onto the tarmac in our sweaters and jeans into 22 degree weather (at 5am local time, 7am Vancouver) and humidity like we never see in Vancouver. It was neat to see an airport that was just a large room and being greeted by a Maori singer. The trick here though was after the luggage went around a few times and we only had two bags we kept looking expectantly as our fellow travelers slowly ventured out of the airport. Then I heard the words “that’s the last of the luggage folks” and I swear my soul died a little. A fear of mine is losing luggage, and there we were with two pieces missing. Ironically we soon discovered that they were the pieces that had the majority of Drew’s summer clothes, my hiking shoes and all of our toiletries. Air New Zealand was really great though and they gave us some kits with essentials like t-shirts (XL for women, XXL for man) and toothbrushes and the promise to reimburse us for incidentals, so we left with missing luggage praying that it would soon arrive and met with Kelly the manager for Aremango Guest House where we would be staying.

The 8km drive to the guesthouse was exciting for me. I had never seen palm trees, never driven on the left side of the road, never been in any sort of tropical environment, and never had a stamp in my passport until that day. It was beautiful to see clear blue skies, tons of green and the ocean poking out through the trees. The guesthouse itself is also really nice. Our room has a king size bed and two twin bunk beds which are perfect for piling our luggage onto. The kitchen is very clean and has most everything we need for cooking. There is a large covered porch out the kitchen with two large seating areas which have proven to be great to sit around with the others staying at the guesthouse for meals and talking at night. It is also just a short walk from the Beach.

So the logical thing on the first day at 7am after a 17 or so hour commute would be to rest, but not us, after a quick breakfast we caught a ride into town. Now something important to note is that the island of Rarotonga is only 32km around, and from town to where we are staying is 8km. So of course Drew and I figure that to walk 8km in Vancouver would be about 1.5-2 hours so we can definitely walk back, and plan to do so. Yeah… the adventure begins. We grabbed some toiletries and food while I lamented over the fact that two important bags went missing and two not as important made it through (like the bag with our camping gear and cycling gear), and over the cost of food as took photos of how expensive things are here, like $6 for a box of Kleenex, which I will post once we have more reliable internet access. We then added to our tourist look, pale skin wasn’t a tell tale tourist sign enough for us, and I got a big floppy straw hat, and Drew got a gray straw cowboy hat. Touristy and will keep the sun out of our eyes! Then the walk begins.

So we were walking for about 45 minutes before the first person stopped to offer us a ride, we politely said no thanks and kept upon our way. After about 1.5 hours we started to say “oh we are close now I remember this massage place”. This is also when the heat of the day was at its max and our water bottle started to get a bit low and when my feet started to blister from wearing just small slip on shoes and Drew’s flip flops, or jandals as the Kiwis call them, (Japanese Sandals) started to bother him. Then after about 2 hours the second car stopped to offer us a ride, but no, on we went because now we had to prove that we could do it. It wasn’t long after this when we had started to walk in the rain that I heard a cat crying from inside the bushes next to the road. I called it over and it turned out to be a tiny kitten probably no older than about 6 or 7 weeks that was skin and bone and soaking wet. I of course picked it up and after trying the house nearest where we found it (no one was home) decided the only logical conclusion was to carry it the rest of the way home. Turns out we were still a good few km from home at that point so I was carrying a watermelon my bag filled with food and a heavy water bottle and juggling a kitten while it was raining. We got the kitten back and some of the other guests helped get it milk and we called the local animal shelter to come get it. But I of course fell in love with it, and it with me. I had really been struggling with having to part with my cat, Nuku, and was sad that cats wouldn’t be a part of my life anymore and the universe provided me with a lesson that cats will always be a part, even if they aren’t mine. So I bonded with Shiva, my newly named friend and got to have the joy of a creature being completely trusting and loving because I had cared for it. The shelter came shortly after but it was a good reminder to me about how things that are important always find a way in.

The rest of our first day included going swimming in the lagoon just off from our guesthouse and me taking care of my extremely swollen and blistered feet. Walking into the water wasn’t the extremely warm water I was expecting but it certainly wasn’t like the pacific from back home. You could walk directly in without wincing at all, amazing. The water is also crystal clear and the bottom has a startling amount of sea cucumbers. First day found bed around 8pm with a sleep like the dead until…

5am. Second day. Roosters. Insane roosters who crow at each other to announce the morning and do so right outside our window since chickens seem to roam wild on this island. Something inside of me responded to this, some primal prairie girl roots that made me feel like I should spring out of bed and get to tending Ma and Pa’s fields. But of course I merely complained about chickens and then fell back asleep. Since we had discovered that a 8km walk in 32 degree humid weather was not like Vancouver we needed a more reliable form of transport and the bus cost $4 each time you got on, each, so we figured scooter here we come. It seems that the primary form of transportation on the island for foreigners as well as locals is scooters and Drew was in his element when we picked ours up. I must say that it is really thrilling to bomb along on the back. We did the circuit of the entire island scoping out places we needed to return to and then explored the Fruits of Rarotonga beach which had really nice hot water with lots of coral. Drew did some snorkeling but since my contacts were packed in the lost luggage I found that I couldn’t see that much so chose to just swim and enjoy the weather. Second day found another early night of sleep.

This takes us to third day, today. Again the roosters were at it at the crack of dawn. A bit easier to fall back asleep today, which was nice. However when I went out of the room the best sight was to be had, that of our luggage stacked at the door. Happiness knew no bounds as I came back into the room and danced around doing the “our luggage was found and delivered” dance for Drew while he lay in bed. It was exciting. Unpacking my contacts and getting ready for the day knowing I could get some snorkeling in was thrilling. Back to Fruits of Rarotonga we went and promptly snorkeled for about 3 hours. I now have the burns to prove it, but it was probably the most beautiful thing I had ever seen. Being amongst the fish and seeing fish that I had only ever seen at the Aquarium, or in pet stores swimming just inches from me was the highlight of the trip so far. After lunch we spent the afternoon riding around on the scooter some more and I am now nursing burnt knees, shoulder and inner thighs to my butt due to I think the sunscreen rubbing off on the scooter then swimming for 3 hours. Oh well, this uncomfortable pain has been totally worth the things I have seen and experienced. I am blown away by this country.

Sun burnt, dehydrated and tired I am loving it here. Taking today to rest as a storm may be moving in, but I am sure there will be many more rambles to come.

2 comments:

  1. This brings back so many memories of my own globe-trotting...and we were just about the same age....the heat, the snorkeling, the food....ahhh! Savour every moment.......

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  2. Oh my gosh... it sounds heavenly! And a kitten to top it off! *Joy!*

    (So glad your luggage arrived! What a relief.)

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